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Penetration Enhancers Explained: How Formulators Help Molecules Cross the Skin Barrier
This article describes published laboratory science for educational purposes. It makes no claims about use in people.
The outer skin layer, the stratum corneum, is built to keep things out. Researchers who study topical delivery test additives called penetration enhancers.
| Type | How it is thought to work |
|---|---|
| Glycols (propylene glycol) | Dissolve in the skin and help carry other molecules |
| Ethanol | Extracts some skin lipids and increases solubility |
| Fatty acids (oleic acid) | Disturb the packing of skin lipids |
| Liposomes | Fatty vesicles that can fuse with or soften skin lipids |
| Occlusion (oils, petrolatum) | Trap water, hydrating and loosening the barrier |
Trade-offs
- Stronger enhancers can irritate the skin in test models.
- Some ingredients clash with metals. Chelators, for example, can strip copper from a copper peptide.
- What works for a small molecule may not for a peptide.
How it is measured
Franz diffusion cells, tape-stripping and HPLC analysis of skin layers.
For research on copper peptides, compatibility is key. See Topical GHK-Cu. Keep reading.
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For laboratory research use only. Not for human or veterinary use, and not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any condition. This article is educational and is not medical advice.
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